More or less unknown to American tourists, Ghent is a medieval gem of a town with all the charm of a small village and the modern sensibility of a major European city. Serving as both the capital of Flanders and Europe’s second most populous city during the Middle Ages, Ghent’s unique blend of French, Dutch, and Belgian influences makes it a veritable melting pot of history and culture. All that popularity and ensuing wealth over the centuries led to the creation of an absolutely enchanting town replete with gothic churches, gorgeous canals, striking guild houses, a thriving beer scene, and even a bonafide medieval castle.
Intrigued yet? Here’s how to spend two perfect days in Ghent, Belgium.
Getting There
One of the most appealing things about Ghent is how simple it is to reach. Easily accessible by train from other large cities like Brussels and Bruges, Ghent makes a nearly seamless add-on to any Belgium itinerary and one you definitely won’t regret. One of the easiest ways to navigate train schedules and purchase tickets from just about anywhere in Europe is with the Trainline app.
How to Get to Ghent from Brussels
Arriving by train from Brussels is a breeze thanks to a 30-minute route between Brussels South/Midi Train Station and Ghent’s main hub of Gent-Sint-Pieters. No matter where you are in Brussels, you’ll just need to get to Brussels Midi station to catch this direct line. If you’re coming from the airport, you’ll take the airport train to Brussels Midi and then change trains to board the line heading for Ghent — it might be labeled “Bruges/Brugge” because that’s the train’s final destination.
You can buy train tickets at the station but I recommend buying them online in advance just to minimize stress.
How to Get to Ghent from Bruges
A dedicated (and frequently running) Ghent Bruges train makes travel between the two cities as simple as can be. The ride takes about 30 minutes and costs around €18 round trip.
How to Get from Ghent Train Station to the City Center
Ghent’s major train station, Gent-Sint-Pieters, is located a little outside the old city. While Ghent isn’t a huge city, walking roughly 25 minutes from the train station to the city center with luggage in tow isn’t ideal.
Ghent does have a very convenient tram system in place that runs regularly during the day but can be hit or miss late at night and very early in the morning. If the trams are running when you arrive, be sure to buy your tickets from the machines directly outside the train station — there aren’t any ticket machines at the tram stops.
It’s important to note that rideshare services are banned in Ghent. So, if you want to skip the hassle of getting from the train station to your accommodations in the city center, I’d recommend booking a taxi transfer in advance.
What to Do in Ghent: Your Two-Day Ghent Itinerary
Day 1
Once you’ve arrived and checked in or stored your luggage, you’ll want to get acquainted with your surroundings. Take your time meandering through Ghent’s canals and historic walkways, slowly making your way toward Gravensteen Castle — an unmissable landmark that serves as a great reference point if ever get turned around.
Just across the street from the castle’s drawbridge (as I said, it’s a bonafide medieval castle) sits a quaint little cafe dubbed Du Chocolat. Stop in for a leisurely cup of coffee and brunch or light lunch among eclectic decor and castle views. My recommendation would be an ultra-fresh sandwich on a house-made baguette but to each their own.
Take a Self-Guided Chocolate Tour of Ghent
After finishing off something savory, it’s time to go in search of a little sweetness. Belgium is renowned for its chocolates and Ghent’s confectionery skill is no exception. The best way to get your bearings and indulge in one of the city’s most popular exports? Embark on a self-guided chocolate tour around town.
Of course, I have an itinerary for this indulgent adventure but the gist is to just stop into any chocolate shop that looks good to you and ask the shopkeeper for their recommendations. Four to five pieces of gourmet chocolate will run you around €5 to €8 per stop — significantly cheaper than a guided tour and with more flexibility, to boot.
Hot tip: Make a note of which shops and specific chocolates you like so you can go back and collect your favorites to bring home for a saccharin souvenir.
Visit Saint Bavo's Cathedral
After a few stops along your self-guided chocolate tour, you’ll be ready for a break from the sugar rush. Head for Saint Bavo’s Cathedral for a medieval-meets-ultra-modern tour that will make any art history nerd (hello) swoon. The ancient cathedral plays host to an augmented reality (AR) experience that takes you on a virtual tour through time, exploring the church’s 1,000-year history and how it came to be home to one of Christianity’s most famous works of art: the Ghent Altarpiece by Jan Van Eyck with its centerpiece, “The Adoration of the Golden Lamb.”
All you have to do is don a helmet-goggle combo and follow the instructions as you move around the space and explore interactive holographic exhibits that culminate in a viewing of the actual Ghent Altarpiece in all its restored glory. This is a ticketed experience and one I highly recommend booking in advance. Trust me when I say it is absolutely worth the price of admission.
Grab a Belgian Beer
Following your AR tour, spend some time admiring the cathedral’s awe-inspiring interiors and myriad religious relics before striking out in search of another top Belgian export: beer. Around the corner from Saint Bavo’s in the picturesque Vrijdagmarket square is a casual dive bar called De Dulle Griet. While it may not look like much from the outside, this bar boasts the largest collection of Belgian beer in Ghent with more than 500 brews on offer. Pull up a stool and ask the bartender (all of whom speak excellent English) for their recommendation.
For an authentic if unorthodox drinking experience, request the house beer. Appropriately dubbed “Max,” the oversized brew is served in a bulbous 1.2-liter glass anchored by a wooden rack — an unusual apparatus that once allowed coachmen to drink and drive without spilling their beer. There is one catch: The glass is so expensive to produce that a small (if bizarre) deposit is required for your order. You’ll have to surrender a shoe before you can be served your liter of beer.
Enjoy Some Homestyle Flemish Comfort Food
After enjoying a taste of Belgium’s beer culture (and ensuring that you’re in possession of both of your shoes), it’s time to find some sustenance. For your first night in Belgium, I highly recommend booking a table at Mémé Gusta. This cozy-chic establishment embodies “homestyle” in every sense of the word, serving up classic Flemish comfort food in stylish vintage-inspired surroundings.
While you really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu here, the Mémé Gusta Stew is a must-order. Pork stewed in stout produces a rich warm pot of comfort served steaming with a side of stewed apples, salad, and a bowl of fries. It turns out, almost every meal in Belgium is served with a side of fries — that’s a national policy I can get behind.
Those who don’t eat meat aren’t left out at Mémé Gusta either. Known widely as Europe’s veggie capital, Ghent has been a haven for vegetarians for years and is earning an equally appealing reputation among vegans, too. A vegetarian version of the restaurant’s famed stew is on offer as are meat-free dishes like cheese croquettes, mushroom toast, and vegetable tempura.
After all that chocolate, beer, and stew, the only thing left on the agenda is a good night’s sleep.
Day 2
Climb the Ghent Belfry
You’ll want to rise bright and early for day two in Ghent — it’s time to work off some of that chocolate. Make your way towards the University of Ghent campus to get a feel for the college life bustling about in the shadow of the city’s medieval monuments. Among the striking gothic architecture, you’ll find the Ghent Belfry or bell tower. An imposing structure towering above the surrounding rooftops that you’re about to climb.
The tallest belfry in Belgium stands just shy of 300 feet, which makes for a great morning workout. But we’re not just here to work off all that rich Flemish food. The payoff comes at the end of your trek, where you’re greeted with uninterrupted 360-degree views over the historic city. Bonus points if you can rise early enough to catch the sunrise, but climbing before dinner to catch the sunset is a great option, too. Personally, I just prefer to get the hike out of the way before breakfast.
Treat Yourself to Brunch
For a light and fresh morning meal, head south towards the Ghent Opera House. Across the street from the stately establishment, you’ll find a quaint cafe dubbed Olé Pistolet. Whether you’re craving a full continental or just some eggs and toast, this quiet eatery delivers with ultra-fresh plates of charcuterie, fruit, salad, hot scrambled eggs with thick slices of toast (from bread baked earlier that morning), and baskets of fluffy baked goods. A cozy ambiance and friendly staff (a common occurrence in Belgium) add to the relaxed atmosphere, providing a serene spot in which to start your day.
Tour Gravensteen Castle, The Castle of the Counts
After breakfast, enjoy a stroll back towards the historic center of town — it’s finally time to explore that imposing castle. Gravensteen Castle (also known as The Castle of the Counts) has been standing vigil over Ghent for nearly 900 years, so you’ll want to dedicate plenty of time to touring this impressive monument. Luckily, there is an audio guide available for rent.
Rather than a dry list of facts, the castle’s tale is told with a heavy dose of wit by Flemish comedian Wouter Deprez. As entertaining as it is educational, the roughly 90-minute tour walks you (literally) through the castle’s history and its implications for the city, all while weaving a witty narrative around the structure’s original owner. All in all, it’s a fun way to spend an afternoon.
Explore Graffiti Street
Once you’ve left Gravensteen Castle’s ancient fortifications, head back into the modern world by way of Graffiti Street. This pedestrian alleyway situated just across the Leie River from the castle serves as an open-air art gallery, where local street artists cover every available inch of real estate in colorful murals. The hidden walkway provides a nice city break and also serves up a unique backdrop for some photos of your Ghent getaway.
Sip Belgian Beer With a Side of Nostalgia
The best way to while away a few late afternoon hours is with another round of Belgian beer. Pull up a stool at a bar along the river like Waterhuis aan de Bierkant (“The Waterhouse at the Beerside”) to watch boats and bikers meander by with a local brew in hand.
For a twist on tradition, head for the cheekily named bar Comic Sans. Sitting quietly in the shadow of Saint Nicholas’ Church, this spot proudly proclaims its status as “Belgium’s first superhero bar,” and is, frankly, a haven for nerds of all creeds. Fandom-themed cocktails (my tipple of choice was a hot butterbeer on a blustery April day), arcade and board games, and comic book memorabilia line the walls, and a dedicated game room boasting a wall of TVs is readily available for gamers, as long as they keep ordering drinks, of course (note to interested parties: GameCube games are free with drink purchase but Xbox access has to be paid for separately).
Savor French-Meets-Flemish Fare in Stylish Surroundings
When you’ve had your fill of alcohol-fueled afternoon activity, head back to your accommodations to freshen up for dinner. For an upscale take on French-meets-Flemish cuisine, make a reservation at Pakhuis. The trendy eatery takes up residence in a former warehouse that has since been restored and refurbished to house two stories of white tablecloth-clad tables, a spacious terrace, and a huge bar anchoring the whole affair. Suffice it to say, the vibes are on point.
Super-fresh seafood is the highlight here, like a daily rotating selection of oysters (complete with a thorough description of each from your knowledgeable server), buttery Dover Sole, or lobster caught off the coast of France. A curated collection of plates featuring locally raised West Flemish Red Beef will satisfy a carnivorous appetite, while a thoughtful selection of vegetable-forward dishes will delight those forgoing meat. No matter which dish you choose for dinner, you’ll want to save room for dessert. French classics like crème brûlée satisfy even the biggest sweet tooth but I have to recommend the perfectly crisp Brussels waffle with cranberry compote. A tasty piece of history, “Brussels” waffles were actually invented in their namesake city but were renamed “Belgian waffles” because people outside the country didn’t know where Brussels was.
After dinner, enjoy a leisurely nighttime stroll through the city. Walking across the Grasbrug bridge with the lights from historic guild houses reflected on the river is an enchanting sight you won’t want to miss. Consider it a perfect way to reminisce on your two perfect days in Ghent.
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